Hydrogen Peroxide For Dog Bad Breath


    As kids, almost everyone had a run-in with hydrogen peroxide. Occasionally, even as adults we still find the need for this antiseptic. But these instances were to clean sores or wounds that we got while playing around. This was done to make sure that we were protected from nasty infections. So it is a bit controversial to hear about our handy antiseptic being used as a breath freshener. But many dog owners are using it exactly to cure their dog’s bad breath problem.

    If this trend continues then it is highly possible to see in our local pet store tucked in its shelves a brand name called DOG BAD BREATH HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. But before anyone rushes to the nearest store for this medicine they better study this compound better or ask their vet about it. This way, they are better informed if ever they do seriously consider using hydrogen peroxide as a dog breath home remedy.

    First of all, what causes bad breath? Bad breath results when the concentration of anaerobic bacteria in the dog’s mouth grows out of proportion because of poor hygiene. These anaerobic bacteria are normally found in the mouth of most animals, humans, and dogs included. It is when dog owners neglect to clean their dog’s mouth regularly that these bacteria become too numerous in the dog’s mouth. This alone should be enough to convince every dog owner to make sure that they regularly brush their dog’s teeth with a pet toothpaste.

    Second, how does bad breath develop from these bacteria? It is pretty simple really. The bacteria which have been left alone eat the food particles that accumulate in the dog’s teeth and gums. After this happens, the bacteria will then release compounds that are mainly sulfuric and then will mix with the air, and these results in bad breath.

    So why do some dog owners use hydrogen peroxide to treat their pet’s foul breath? Most dog owners value this compound to clean their dog’s mouth, not because of any wound that they may blame for their dog’s foul breath. Rather, the substance can be valuable in treating bad breath because it adds to the concentration of oxygen in the mouth.

    Anaerobic bacteria are unable to survive in an environment that is loaded with oxygen. Since hydrogen peroxide is loaded with oxygen it manages to do away with the excess bacteria in the dog’s mouth. Then the sulfuric compounds responsible for the bad breath also disappear from the dog’s mouth. This results in a fresher breath for the dog.

    It is very important though that only hydrogen peroxide with less than 1.5% concentration is used. This is not one instance where a stronger concentration will do the trick. In this case, if too strong hydrogen peroxide is used then chances are it will destroy the enamel in the teeth, leading to tooth decay.

    Are there any side effects? Yes! If overused, it causes vomiting in the dog. While this may not be a cause for serious concern, it is still pretty uncomfortable for your dog.

    With this in mind, it is more practical to use mouth rinses that can easily be mixed into the dog’s water. They are known to be safe and tolerable to the dog. So before anyone thinks of using dog bad breath hydrogen peroxide on their pet, they would be advised to use a product that has been specially formulated for the purpose.

    Source by Melissa Simmonds

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    Alaska- The Call of the Wild

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    Alaska Facts

    Land area: Alaska encompasses 586,412 square miles, which is about 365,000,000 acres, Alaska is the largest state in the union and; one-fifth the size of the lower 48 states.

    Largest Parks: Alaska’s unique beauty and vast wilderness areas are among its greatest treasures. More than half the nation’s parklands are found here, located in every geographic area of the state.

    Diameter: East to west, 2,400 miles; north to south, 1,420 miles.

    Coastline: 6,640 miles, point to point; as measured on the most detailed maps available, including islands, Alaska has 33,904 miles of shoreline. Estimated tidal shoreline, including islands, inlets, and shoreline to the head of the tidewater, is 47,300 miles.

    Adjacent salt water: North Pacific Ocean, Bering Sea, Chukchi Sea, Arctic Ocean.

    Tallest mountain: Mount McKinley, at 20,320 feet, is the tallest mountain in North America. Alaska has 39 mountain ranges.

    Most populated City: Anchorage is less than 300,000. Over half of the state’s population lives here.

    What Alaska has to offer

    Alaska has some of the most incredible scenery to be found in the United States. To enjoy all Alaska has to offer, visitors must get out and experience it for themselves.


    Of the 20 highest peaks in the United States, 17 are in Alaska. Mt. McKinley, the highest peak in North America, is 20,320 ft. above sea level. Denali, the Indian name for the peak, means “The Great One.”


    Alaska has an estimated 100,000 glaciers, ranging from tiny cirque glaciers to huge valley glaciers. There are more active glaciers and ice fields in Alaska than in the rest of the inhabited world.


    Alaska has 6,640 miles of coastline and, including islands, has 33,904 miles of shoreline.


    In these magnificent settings, Alaska offers superb wildlife viewing opportunities. Moose, wolves, Bald eagles, caribou, and bears, driven away from other lands by the crush of modern development, roam wild and free.

    Alaska is bear country!

    There are three types of bears found in Alaska: the black bear, brown/grizzly bear, and polar bear. Alaska’s coastal brown/grizzly bear is the world’s largest carnivorous land mammal.

    Alaska Guide to Alaska Activities & Alaska Tours


    Alaska has much to offer from the Arctic of the north to the Rain Forest of the southeast. Alaska visitors have a multitude of Alaska activities to choose from. Your Alaska tour can be as exciting as you want to make it. Some of the most popular Alaska activities are listed below.

    Fly fishing, Hiking, Camping, Alaska Cruises, Wildlife Viewing, Brown Bear Viewing, Snow Machining, Dog Sledding, Bird Watching, Hunting, Glacier Tours, Skiing, Flight Seeing, Canoeing & Kayaking and relaxing at rustic lodges, Alaska Railroad tours, Iditarod Dog Sledding tours, Viewing the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), or taking an Alaska cruise are the favorites among Alaskan Tourists.

    Accommodations range from bed and breakfasts to rustic lodges to cabins, to luxury hotels in downtown Anchorage.

    Fishing is one of the tops if not the most favorite Alaska Tour. In Alaska, fly fishing is the norm. Alaska salmon fishing and Alaska halibut fishing are the most popular among anglers. Fishing lodges abound throughout Alaska.

    Hunting is another top Alaska Activity. Moose hunting, bear hunting, & caribou hunting are favorites. Like Fishing lodges, Hunting lodges also abound throughout Alaska.

    Places of Interest

    Anchorage, Fairbanks, Juneau, Kenai Fjords, Prince William Sound, Homer, Sitka, Kotzebue, Cordova, Dillingham, Valdez, Seward, Whittier, Kenai, Homer, Barrow, Ketchikan, Kodiak Island, Skagway, Barrow, Palmer & Wasilla in the Matanuska Susitna Valley (Mat-Su Valley), State Parks and National Parks such as Mt. McKinley otherwise known as Denali national park which encompasses breathtaking tundra views.

    Ways to get to Alaska

    Airline travel is one of the most inexpensive ways to reach Alaska. Alaska Airlines has flights throughout the U.S. The Alaska Highway often referred to as the “Alcan Highway” or simply the “Alcan” is another popular method of getting to Alaska. The Alaska Highway provides a great Alaska tour in itself. Opportunities for wildlife viewing abound. If you plan on driving the Alaska Highway, make sure to pick up a copy of the Alaska Milepost magazine. The Milepost offers a comprehensive guide on driving the Alcan. The Marine Highway, otherwise known as the Alaska Inside Passage provides a relaxing Alaska Cruise. Many cruise ship providers such as Princess Cruises also provide transportation to Alaska.

    I have attempted to put together an online Alaskan vacation planner. The goal of this site is to provide you with the tools to plan your vacation yourself.

    Source by Roger Sanders

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    Cruising To Alaska From Vancouver? Three Secrets You Must Know

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    1. Arrive into Vancouver at least a day before your cruise sails. Of course, I may be slightly biased, but Vancouver is going to be one of your top ports of call during this cruise. So often I’ve seen cruisers fly into Vancouver on the day their cruise departs and completely miss this wonderful city. Also, the added stress level of making your ship on time is no way to start your vacation if all does not go according to plan. All it takes is one missed plane connection, a mechanical difficulty, a problem at the border, or bad weather and your entire vacation could be ruined. Trust me, the ship will not wait for you in Vancouver if you are late, and you are solely responsible for making it to the ship on time. Not only that, but the tides and currents sailing out of Vancouver make it so that the Captain in many cases must leave on time, or run the risk of being held in port for hours until it’s safe again to depart. There are incredible tours and sightseeing options in Vancouver and if you can swing the time it is worth it. The same is true of your departure day – why end a perfectly good cruise vacation by stressing out on whether or not you will make it off the ship in time to make that ridiculously early flight home?

    2. Getting to the ship. There are several ways to do this depending on whether or not you are going to disregard tip number one and try to go straight to the ship, or whether you are going to head straight to your hotel. 2015 marks the first season in a long time that only Canada Place will be used for cruise departures and thank God for that! Those of you who may have cruised from “the other” pier known as Ballantyne Pier in the past, will certainly agree with me that it was a disappointing start to your cruise, to say the least. Ballantyne Pier is poorly located outside of the downtown core and far from the majority of hotels in the city. Fortunately for you, Canada Place is where your ship’s departure destination will almost certainly be this year. The cruise terminal is located at Canada Place which is very close to a multitude of hotels, taxis, and the Canada Line; Vancouver’s fully automated rapid transit train line. Some cruise lines offer bus transfers to the ship or hotel however my recommendation is to do the math first. A taxi from Vancouver Airport to Canada Place with a 15% tip will run you around $35 to 45 dollars Canadian and takes around 30 minutes. Most ships purchased bus transfers will cost you around the same per person so they may not be the best deal unless you are traveling solo. If you don’t mind dragging all your luggage around and walking a few blocks the Canada Line train costs just under $10 per person and is around a 30 minute trip to the pier- not bad if you have a backpack, but with luggage, I’d recommend against it. After you get off the train you have to walk to the ship which is around ten minutes from train to the ship luggage drop off point. My first choice would be to arrange a pick up from a pre-cruise tour company or perhaps a private sedan to take you to your hotel. There are plenty of tours and luxury rides available online or at the airport and you should arrange this before you get on the plane. A private sedan or limousine will usually run you around $60-$80 Canadian plus gratuity. If you are coming in early be aware that most hotels check-in time is between 3 pm and 4 pm, however, any decent hotel will try to accommodate you early or at the very least offer to store your luggage upon arrival until your room is ready.

    3. When is the best time to arrive at the ship? Well, if you like sitting around, standing in lines or waiting at immigration go first thing in the morning. If you’re like me and would prefer to spend your day enjoying Vancouver or sleeping in a bit you should think carefully about what time you arrive at the cruise terminal at Canada Place to board your ship. The time it takes you to board the ship from getting dropped off at the pier can vary anywhere from 20 minutes to 4 hours depending on when you arrive and how many ships are in port. Keep in mind that the ship is more than likely dropping off a few thousand guests who have just completed their cruise. It usually takes until at least 10 am to clear out the ship from the departing guests, and another hour before they will allow newly arriving guests to start the check-in process. If your first port of call is a Canadian port such as Victoria or Prince Rupert you will probably be spared going through United States Immigration at the pier in Canada Place. If your cruise is however like the majority of Alaskan cruises and your first port is in Alaska, you will more than likely go through the US immigration inspection just before the ship’s check-in process at Canada Place which is why you need to have your passport handy. The procedure usually runs in this order; luggage drops off, security screening, US immigration processing, cruise line check-in, and then, the moment you’ve been waiting all this time for-boarding the ship! Even if you are the first person on board the ship at 11 am, most of the ship including your staterooms won’t be accessible to you until around 1 pm when the ship’s staff have finished cleaning and preparing everything for you. What this means is that the first two to three hours of check-in you will be sitting or standing in a huge line, and then when you do get on board, if it is before 1 pm you will be forced to wait in a public area of the ship with your carry on luggage until they announce that your rooms are ready over the ship’s PA. My advice is to enjoy Vancouver, and show up a bit later in the early afternoon for check-in instead of trying to get to Canada Place at 9 am so that you can stand in line with 2000 other guests. Having said that make very sure of course that you check your sail-away time and don’t leave it to the last minute either. You should be at the pier a minimum of 90 minutes before sail-away time at the very latest as the check-in process is usually closed at least an hour before sail away.

    So there you have it, the first of many tips for this year’s Alaskan Cruise Season. Don’t miss next time when I will tell you all about what to expect on your first day onboard, from how to get room upgrades, to what needs to be done the first day of the cruise, and what can wait until day two. Until then, thanks for reading and Bon Voyage!

    Source by Jeff Potts

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    German Shepherd Owners Guide; From Pup To Pal | Shepped.com

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    Product Name: German Shepherd Owners Guide; From Pup To Pal | Shepped.com

    Click here to get German Shepherd Owners Guide; From Pup To Pal | Shepped.com at discounted price while it’s still available…

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    Alaska Auto Insurance Laws and Car Insurance Requirements

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    Alaska auto insurance laws are amongst the most stringent in the United States, a fact not lost on the state’s citizens. However harsh these laws may appear, ultimately they are intended to ensure the safety of all road users. The purpose of these laws, therefore, isn’t to be punitive, but rather to keep citizens on the road safe in all eventualities. That’s why every vehicle must be insured and proof of insurance must be offered at the scene of every accident in the state.

    According to Alaska auto insurance requirements, every driver must have a currently active liability insurance policy at all times. This applies to whether the vehicle is being operated on a street, highway, or public property. The only exceptions to the insurance requirements are off-highway vehicles, areas where registration is not required, and non-registered non-operational vehicles.

    The minimum coverage required under Alaska auto insurance laws is the highest in the nation. Every driver must carry coverage of at least $50,000 for injury or death to any person, $100,000 for total injuries or deaths per accident, and $25,000 for property damage. The rates are set at a high level to minimize the number of lawsuits that tend to follow accidents.

    As in most states, drivers are required to provide proof of insurance at particular times. In Alaska, this includes any time you are involved in an accident or any time you are pulled over by a police officer and asked for proof of insurance. Failure to provide adequate proof can result in a range of penalties depending on your driving history.

    According to Alaska auto insurance requirements, failure to provide proof of insurance can result in immediate suspension of your driver’s license and the period of suspension can range from 90 days to 12 months, depending on your previous record. The more times you are issued a motor vehicle liability insurance, or MLI, violation, the longer the suspension.

    Along with the license suspension, drivers can also be charged a fine for MLI violations. A first violation carries up to a $500 fine and any subsequent violation can carry up to a $1,000 fine or a 6-months driver’s license suspension or both. As with other areas of Alaska’s insurance laws, the penalties are particularly austere in order to ensure the safety of all road users.

    Under Alaska auto insurance laws, owners of new cars with outstanding loans must also carry full coverage insurance. Full coverage insurance is also required on all rental cars. If you do not have collision coverage for a rental car, your insurance company is required to offer it in order to mitigate any physical damage to the car.

    Alaska does not take the idea of auto insurance lightly and neither should you as a driver. It is therefore in your best interest to ensure that you are covered for any eventuality. You should not take risks with your life or those of other drivers. Put safety first with a full coverage auto insurance plan for complete peace of mind.


    Source by Richard Blake

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    Guide to Common Dog Vaccines – DHPPV, DA2PPV, DHLPPV, -C


    Sometimes this particular vaccine is titled DHPPV, DA2PPV or DHPPV-C, or some other similar variation. This particular vaccine is commonly referred to as the “Distemper-Parvo” vaccine or the “5-in-one” or “seven-in-one”. Although there are some differences between them, you can tell what’s in the vaccine based on the letters.

    The D in DHPPV stands for Distemper. This airborne disease is a virus and attacks the nervous system in dogs causing the dog to have seizures, cough, vomit, and sometimes foam at the mouth. This disease is incredibly contagious and all dogs should be vaccinated with DHPPV as a result. Although secondary infections can be treated, most cases of Distemper are incurable and untreatable. Since this is a neurological disease, all dogs should be vaccinated for Distemper regularly. Puppies should receive a series of DHPPV shots before they are five months of age.

    The H in DHPPV stands for Hepatitis also known as canine adenovirus type 2 (therefore when “A2” appears as part of this vaccine abbreviation, it refers to the same disease as the “H”). This disease, like hepatitis in humans, attacks the liver and is contracted through a healthy dog’s exposure to the feces, urine, blood, saliva, and nasal discharge of a dog who has the disease. Dogs are especially susceptible to this disease simply because they use their nose to sniff and evaluate their surroundings. Although hepatitis will correct itself in healthy individuals, it does come with symptoms that need treatment. These symptoms include diarrhea and poor immune response. Puppies and weak dogs are especially at risk.

    One P in DHPPV stands for Parainfluenza. This is a respiratory tract infection (upper respiratory infection) in dogs, much like a cough or cold in humans. Some symptoms of it include nasal or eye discharge, coughing and labored breathing. This is different than “kennel cough” or Bordetella, which is a separate vaccine.

    One P in DHPPV is for Parvovirus. This is an incredibly contagious, often deadly virus that lives in the soil for up to seven to ten years (depending on the study). Infected individuals shed the virus for up to three weeks and it can take up to ten days to two weeks for an infected animal to begin showing signs or symptoms. If an owner believes his or her animal has been exposed to parvo, the dog should be tested (at a vet’s office) and vaccinated if he or she has not yet received the proper doses of the DHPPV vaccine. Parvo is very, very contagious.

    Infected animals, usually young dogs, and puppies, usually stop eating and drinking, lay around with little energy, and eventually have severe, dark, bloody diarrhea. Although some of these symptoms are the same as hookworm infestations, immediate action is necessary to ensure the dog’s survival. There is no cure for parvo. Dogs will die from the dehydration and intestinal trauma, not the virus. Young dogs and puppies sometimes die within days of the beginning of symptoms.

    Overnight care and IV fluids are required to keep dogs hydrated and comfortable while the virus runs its course. This treatment often takes a few days and is very expensive. Owners should keep their puppies away from strange, potentially contaminated soil (like parks, strange yards, and dog parks) until the puppy is fully vaccinated (“fully vaccinated” means a series of vaccines 2-3 weeks apart from one another while the animal is still young).

    The V stands for “Virus”. CPV, for example, is simply the term used for Canine Parvovirus and is the abbreviation for a vaccine that only covers Parvo.

    The L in DHLPPV stands for Leptospirosis. This disease is spread through urine and dogs contract the disease by licking a contaminated surface. Leptospirosis, or laptop, is common mostly in kennels where strange, unknown, potentially contaminated dogs might urinate. The disease affects the liver and causes yellow eyes, lethargy, and sometimes renal failure. Many veterinarians have ceased giving a leptospirosis vaccine due to low risk under most circumstances.

    The C in DHPPV-C stands for Coronavirus. This disease is spread through contaminated feces and causes diarrhea and vomiting in the infected dog. Although this disease is easily treated, it does manifest symptoms within three days of contamination. Because of the high level of exposure, kennel dogs are usually vaccinated for this disease.

    DHPPV should be given annually to dogs under five years of age. Puppies should be vaccinated with DHPPV every 2 to 3 weeks until they are four months of age.

    Consult your veterinarian if you have any questions or concerns about your animal’s vaccinations.

    Source by Emily Kieron

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    Bellinger Fly Reels – Make Every Cast Count

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    Bellinger has long been associated with fine fly-fishing gear, and the Bellinger fly reels are no exception to this rule. Bellinger has been a forerunner in the field of reel seats, and they exhibit a level of quality that is second to none. Anglers alike have been raving about the Bellinger reels for some time and with the dedication and understanding of what an angler really needs and wants from their gear the tradition of this fine work will continue.

    From one man’s passion for fly-fishing come the great Bellinger fly reels, only to compliment the already healthy lineup of fine products under this brand name. Bellinger prides itself on the fine materials used to create some of the most well crafted and innovative fly-fishing gear in the industry. Originally the fine wood spacers immediately recognized the Bellinger name that they employed on the Bellinger fly-fishing rods that they sold. From the introduction to the great wood spacers that they offered, they then moved on to hardware that was precision fit to the rod assembly to round out the perfect angling package.

    What is perhaps the greatest thing about Bellinger and their full lineup of fly reels, is that they offer tools developed by the company to be sold to the market. What this means is that they will sell the tools of the trade to any customer that may be willing to try and make their own rod, rather than purchase one in a store. Most notable would be the tools that they sell for Bamboo rod making, as this seems to be a very popular material for fly rods. Many of the fly reels are convertible from right-handed to left-handed, making the Bellinger fly reels very convenient and easy to attach to your rod.

    Bellinger fly reels are cast from some of the finest materials money can buy, including fine German Nickel/Silver combinations. Bronze, stainless steel, and aluminum are all used for the Delrin and the side plates that attach to the rod and reel itself. Bellinger fly reels could easily be considered the Cadillac of fly reels and for good reason. Quality and a warranty that cannot be beaten makes for a very trusted and well-respected name in the fly fishing industry. If you are interested in the fine line of Bellinger reels, check a location near you that sells them or check them out online, and see for yourself why Bellinger is a name you can trust.

    Source by Mike Singh

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    Responsible Dog Ownership


    With all the companionship and love that our dogs give so freely, it’s hard to imagine that some owners just don’t take responsibility for their dogs. But it’s true. Millions of dogs–healthy dogs–are euthanized every year. Whether through owner neglect or owner ignorance, millions of healthy dogs will endure the same fate this year. So what’s a responsible dog owner to do? The best thing you can do, as a dog owner, is to ensure that your dog doesn’t become a statistic, and you do that through responsible pet ownership.

    Welcoming a new dog into your house means taking on additional long-term responsibility. Many new dog owners find something cute or romantic about bringing that puppy in the window home until they realize that there’s a modicum of work involved in caring for that cute, adorable little face, and a price to pay for those wet, slobbering kisses. You wouldn’t expect to return a baby. It’s no less wrong to return a dog when the novelty wears off, and it ought to be criminal to leave a dog somewhere on its own. In many ways, dogs are as vulnerable as newborn infants are, but dogs are dependent upon their owners for their entire lives.

    Listed below you’ll find basic steps to responsible dog ownership, and many of them are just common-sense rules of the road.

    1. Selecting Your Dog – Turn to a local animal shelter or rescue operation to select a puppy or dog. Remember that older dogs need loving owners too. Refuse to purchase a puppy or dog that started life in a puppy mill.

    2. Test Your Dog – Contact a veterinarian and ask him to run the usual series of tests on your new companion.

    3. Spay or Neuter Your Dog – Responsible pet owners always spay and neuter their dogs and cats. There are far more dogs waiting for adoption than there are owners to adopt them.

    4. Provide Medical Care – Aside from the annual physical examination and vaccinations, protect your dog from heartworm, ticks, and fleas. Talk with your vet about the many options available today. Contact your vet at the first sign that something is wrong with your dog.

    5. Provide Adequate Food and Water – Provide food suited to your dog’s age, size, and condition.

    6. Walk Your Dog – Your dog will let you know when it needs to be walked.

    7. Provide Exercise and Recreation – Provide ample space, dog toys, and an opportunity for your pet to exercise. If you haven’t thrown a Frisbee in twenty years, you’ll be surprised at how much fun it is to try to outsmart your dog–unlikely!

    8. Protect Your Dog from Abuse – Animal cruelty is a serious business, and in some states, it’s a felony. Even the FBI acknowledged that animal cruelty is a known marker (future indicator) of violence against humans. If anyone in your house intentionally mistreats your dog, seek help immediately. You could thwart the next school shooting.

    9. Discourage Aggressive Behavior – You’ll know the difference between hearty play and aggressive behavior. Contact your vet at the first sign of aggressive behavior to discuss your options.

    10. Coping with Serious Illness and Geriatric Dogs -Geriatric dogs are prone to many of the same illnesses that plague geriatric humans. You’ll want to do everything in your power to keep your dog comfortable at the end, but at some point, it may become necessary to end the suffering. If you’ve been a responsible dog owner throughout the dog’s life, you’ll want to end that life just as responsibly as you cared for it.

    Source by M J Plaster

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    Companion Cockatiels – Amusement

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    I always kept German Shepherds until I found myself living in inner-city apartments ten years ago. When I met a couple who urgently needed their two cockatiels babysat for six weeks I couldn’t resist the opportunity.

    These birds, a female and younger male, were the hard cases. He wouldn’t always sit on my shoulder when I left the room, but she did, and when she and I left, he would set up a ruckus, then launch himself off the cage and plummet, clip-winged to the floor to march after me, shouting to his girlfriend the whole way. Both had paper fetishes and bit cute little beak shapes out of any paper I was remiss enough to leave within reach.

    Now I have two male cockatiels, Coriander and Bergamot (B&C). Cockatiels, as members of the parrot family, fall under the category of companion birds. They want to be in your company and to interact with you. They are affectionate, sensitive, surprisingly intelligent, and downright comic.

    They are very messy, however, and I constantly clean up after them. The mess is mostly husked seeds which parrots seem to enjoy flinging for at least a meter radius of their cage.

    All parrots are flocking birds and in the wild, when separated from the flock, call to each other. In captivity they do the same thing… only in captivity, it is I who represents the flock.

    They want to know that I’m within cooee and whistle me up periodically to make sure I’m still around. As long as I respond, they’re content. If I’m a bit tardy with responding, they’ll come looking for me. I’ll be sitting at the computer madly writing when two little birdies appear at the doorway, chirruping. They clump straight over to my feet and begin climbing until they reach my shoulder where they hunker down, gurgling (much as a cat purrs), content. If I sit next to their cage, they’ll clamber out and clumsily leg it over to sit on me.

    B&C are free to be out of their cage when I’m home but I lock them up to go out because they will occupy themselves, beak first, with the nearest interesting looking thing. Telephone cables and electric leads are chief amongst attractive items. They’ll destroy my plants for the pure pleasure of nipping the leaves off. If its metal, they’ll find the weak link within seconds. Jupiter, a male cockatiel I once had, would sit on my shoulder and play with my earring. Next, he’d crane his head around in front of my face to show me the bit he’d just disengaged from the hook which would still be in my ear.

    I’ve taught this pair to say, You’re a twit. It amuses visitors. Recently I left them with the breeders for a couple of weeks. When I returned, they were saying Hello Darling. Both sing in tune to Strauss waltzes, as conducted by Karajan. I leave a CD on repeat while I’m away to serve as a company and increase their repertoire. Bergamot has annoyingly picked up the screech of a Mynah Bird and Coriander repeats the sound of my mobile phone messaging beep. You’ve heard the expression, ‘learning parrot-fashion?’ It means, repetitive. That’s how you teach birds to pick up new words and sounds.

    B&C adore Milk Arrowroot biscuits as a treat. They used to go crazy for broccoli but prefer silverbeet now. They’re also partial to green beans, manuka, bottlebrush, eucalypts, pittosporum, and willow. They pick them happily to bits which they fire gloriously about the place. It keeps them busy as well as nourishing them. I thread a folded piece of paper through their cage bars and they tug at it for days. A small pine cone also keeps them occupied.

    In the wild, cockatiels spend approximately 80% of their time foraging, interspersed with periods of rest. B&C will be busy as summer bees, flat out singing, scrambling over their cage, pulling branches and leaves apart, and then all of a sudden, there they are with their heads on backward, their beaks buried in the feathers on their backs, and their eyes closed.

    They love being sprayed with water occasionally and rub their heads along the perch, wings stretched out and up, tipping themselves at crazy angles to take full advantage of the spray. I used to take Jupiter into the shower with me. When he’d had enough he’d scramble up my arm and I’d roost him on the rail to preen while I washed.

    B&C is still young at six months. I can expect to have the company of these charming feathered clowns for twenty years or more.

    Source by Theresa Sjoquist

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    Model Railroad Guide And Print Out Buildings

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    Click here to get Model Railroad Guide And Print Out Buildings at a discounted price while it’s still available…

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